If you delve into male hair loss, you'll encounter a handful of ingredients repeatedly. Most people know Minoxidil. Redensyl is becoming increasingly well-known. But Procapil? That remains vague for many, even though it is one of the better-substantiated active ingredients in the world of hair growth serums.
What is it, how exactly does it work, and what can you expect from it? We'll explain that here.
What is Procapil?
Procapil is a patented active complex developed by the French cosmetics company Sederma. It is not a single substance but a combination of three components, each addressing a different aspect of hair loss. This combined approach makes it unique because male hair loss typically has multiple causes simultaneously.
The first component is Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, a peptide linked to biotin (vitamin B7). It stimulates the production of proteins like laminin-5 and collagen IV, which keep the hair follicle intact and strengthen the anchoring of the hair in the skin.
The second component is oleanolic acid, a substance derived from olive leaves. Oleanolic acid inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase, which converts testosterone into DHT (dihydrotestosterone). DHT is the hormone that progressively shrinks hair follicles in genetic hair loss.
The third component is apigenin, a flavonoid that improves blood circulation in the scalp. Better circulation ensures that hair follicles are better supplied with oxygen and nutrients.
Each of these substances targets a different part of the problem. This distinguishes Procapil from ingredients that only work in one way.
The role of DHT in male hair loss
To understand why Procapil is relevant for men, it helps to briefly consider DHT. In men with a genetic predisposition to hair loss, the hair follicles on the top of the head are sensitive to this hormone. DHT is formed when the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase converts testosterone. This is a normal process in the body, but genetically sensitive hair follicles react poorly to it.
What happens then is that the follicle slowly shrinks. The hair growth cycle shortens, the hair follicles become thinner, and the hair that grows out becomes increasingly fine. Eventually, production stops completely. This is a slow process, often over years, but it is irreversible once a follicle has completely shriveled.
By locally inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase, Procapil slows down this process. Less DHT at the site means less stress on the follicle. This is the same principle as the drug Finasteride, but oleanolic acid works locally on the skin instead of systemically throughout the body.
What does the research say?
Clinical research has been conducted on Procapil, although this needs to be put into perspective. In a study where men with androgenetic alopecia used a lotion with 3% Procapil twice daily for four months, the number of hairs in the active growth phase increased in 67% of the participants.
This is a relevant metric. Hair loss is accompanied by a shift where more and more hair follicles are in the resting phase and fewer and fewer are in the active growth phase. A return to more active follicles is precisely what you want to achieve.
As with many cosmetic ingredients, the available studies are limited in scope and partly sponsored by the manufacturer. This makes it difficult to draw firm conclusions. But Procapil stands up well compared to many competitors because there is a clearly defined mechanism through which it works. That's more than you can say for many other popular hair growth ingredients.
Procapil, rosemary, and caffeine: three complementary ingredients
Two ingredients you also regularly encounter in hair loss serums are rosemary oil and caffeine. Both have well-substantiated effects, and both tackle hair loss in their own way.
Rosemary oil improves blood circulation in the scalp and, in one study, showed comparable results to Minoxidil 2% for androgenetic alopecia. It also moderately inhibits DHT, which makes it a strong ingredient for the overall scalp.
Caffeine acts on 5-alpha-reductase and can extend the growth duration of hair. In a leave-in serum, where the active ingredient has time to penetrate, caffeine can do its job well. The key is contact time: the longer the ingredient stays on the skin, the more effective it is.
Procapil, in turn, combines DHT inhibition and circulation improvement in one complex, and also adds hair follicle anchoring. Together with rosemary and caffeine, it thus covers multiple aspects of hair loss simultaneously, which is precisely why these three ingredients work so well together in a serum.
How long does it take before you notice anything?
It's important to be realistic here. Procapil is not a quick fix. Hair growth is slow: a full hair growth cycle takes months. Most people who consistently use a serum with Procapil notice a difference in hair thickness or hair loss after three to six months. Don't expect a major change after a few weeks.
What you might notice sooner is that you lose less hair when washing or brushing. This is often the first sign that a product is working: not spectacular growth, but less shedding. And that's exactly how it works.
Stopping use after seeing improvement is also not smart. The cause of the hair loss is not gone. If you stop, the process will simply continue. Consistent use over a longer period is what yields results.
Starting early makes a difference
Procapil works best when there are still active hair follicles to support. A follicle that has completely shriveled cannot be reactivated with any cosmetic product. The sooner you start, the more you can preserve what is already there.
Men who notice their hair starting to thin in their twenties or thirties are in a more favorable position than people who wait decades. That's no reason to panic if you start later. It is a reason not to wait too long if you notice it.
How to use it properly?
Procapil is found in leave-in products: serums and lotions. Not in rinse-off shampoos, because it needs contact time to work. Apply it to a clean, dry, or slightly damp scalp, rub it in gently, and let it absorb without rinsing.
If you combine it with a derma roller? Then the active ingredients can penetrate deeper into the skin through the micro-perforations made by the needles. This can improve absorption and enhance the effect. The Hairborn Growth Serum contains Procapil as one of the active ingredients and works well with the Hairborn Derma Roller for a more complete result.