If you delve into male hair loss, you'll encounter a handful of ingredients repeatedly. Most people know Minoxidil. Redensyl is becoming increasingly well-known. But Procapil? That remains vague for many, even though it is one of the better-substantiated active ingredients in the world of hair growth serums.
What is it, how exactly does it work, and what can you expect from it? We'll explain it here.
What is Procapil?
Procapil is a patented active complex, developed by the French cosmetics company Sederma. It is not a single substance, but a combination of three components, each addressing a different aspect of hair loss. This combined approach makes it special, as hair loss in men usually has multiple causes simultaneously.
- Biotinyl Tripeptide-1 — a peptide linked to biotin (vitamin B7). It stimulates the production of proteins such as laminin-5 and collagen IV, which keep the hair follicle base intact and strengthen the hair's anchoring in the skin.
- Oleanolic acid — a substance derived from olive leaves. Oleanolic acid inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase, which converts testosterone into DHT (dihydrotestosterone). DHT is the hormone that progressively shrinks hair follicles in genetic hair loss.
- Apigenin — a flavonoid that improves blood circulation in the scalp. Better blood flow ensures that hair follicles are better supplied with oxygen and nutrients.
Each of these substances targets a different part of the problem. This distinguishes Procapil from ingredients that only work in one way.
The role of DHT in male hair loss
To understand why Procapil is relevant for men, it helps to pause and consider DHT. In men with a genetic predisposition to hair loss, the hair follicles on the top of the head are sensitive to this hormone. DHT is formed when the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase converts testosterone. This is a normal process in the body, but genetically sensitive hair follicles react poorly to it.
What happens then: the follicle slowly shrinks. The hair growth cycle shortens, the hair follicles become thinner, and the hair that grows becomes increasingly fine. Eventually, production stops completely. This happens slowly, often over years, but it is irreversible once a follicle has completely shriveled.
By inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase locally, Procapil slows down this process. Less DHT at the site means less stress on the follicle. It is the same principle as the drug Finasteride, but oleanolic acid works topically on the skin instead of systemically throughout the body.
What does the research say?
Clinical research has been conducted on Procapil, although this needs to be put into perspective. In a study where men with androgenetic alopecia used a lotion with 3% Procapil twice daily for four months, 67% of participants experienced an increase in the number of hairs in the active growth phase.
That is a relevant metric. Hair loss is accompanied by a shift where more and more hair follicles are in the resting phase and fewer and fewer are in the active growth phase. A return to more active follicles is exactly what you want to achieve.
As with many cosmetic ingredients, the available studies are limited in scope and partly sponsored by the manufacturer. This makes it difficult to draw firm conclusions. But Procapil fares well compared to many competitors, because there is a clearly defined mechanism through which it works. That's more than you can say for many other popular hair growth ingredients.
Procapil, rosemary, and caffeine: three complementary ingredients
Two ingredients you also regularly encounter in anti-hair loss serums are rosemary oil and caffeine. Both have a well-substantiated effect, and both tackle hair loss in their own way.
Rosemary oil improves blood circulation in the scalp and has shown similar results to Minoxidil 2% in androgenetic alopecia in one study. It also inhibits DHT to a limited extent, which makes it a strong ingredient for the overall scalp.
Caffeine works on 5-alpha-reductase and can extend the hair growth period. In a leave-in serum, where the active substance has time to penetrate, caffeine can do its job well. The key is contact time: the longer the ingredient stays on the skin, the more effective it is.
Procapil, in turn, combines DHT inhibition and circulation improvement in one complex, and also adds hair follicle anchoring. Together with rosemary and caffeine, it thus covers multiple aspects of hair loss simultaneously, which is precisely why these three ingredients work so well together in a serum.
How long does it take to notice a difference?
It's important to be realistic here. Procapil is not a quick fix. Hair growth is slow: a full hair growth cycle takes months. Most people who consistently use a serum with Procapil notice a difference in hair thickness or hair loss after three to six months. Don't expect a big change after a few weeks.
What you might notice sooner is that you lose less hair when washing or brushing. This is often the first sign that a product is working: not spectacular growth, but less shedding. And that's exactly how it works.
Stopping use after seeing improvement is also not smart. The cause of the hair loss has not disappeared. If you stop, the process will simply continue. Consistent use over a longer period is what yields results.
Starting early makes a difference
Procapil works best when there are still active hair follicles to support. A follicle that has completely withered cannot be reactivated with any cosmetic product. The earlier you start, the more you can preserve of what is already there.
Men who notice their hair starting to thin in their twenties or thirties are in a better position than people who wait decades. That's no reason to panic if you start later. It is a reason not to wait too long if you notice it.
How to use it correctly?
Procapil is found in leave-in products: serums and lotions. Not in rinse-off shampoos, because it needs contact time to work. Apply it to a clean, dry or slightly damp scalp, gently rub it in and let it absorb without rinsing.
If you combine it with a dermaroller? Then the active ingredients can penetrate deeper into the skin through the micro-perforations created by the needles. This can improve absorption and enhance the effect. The Hairborn Growth Serum contains Procapil as one of the active ingredients, and works well with the Hairborn Derma Roller for a more complete result.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you find Procapil under a different name on the label?
Yes, some labels list it fully spelled out as the individual ingredients Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, oleanolic acid, and apigenin, instead of the brand name Procapil. This can be confusing, but it refers to the same patented combination from Sederma.
Has Procapil also been studied in women?
Procapil has primarily been studied in men with androgenetic alopecia. Less specific research has been published on women, although the mechanism of action, DHT inhibition and improved blood circulation, is not exclusively male. However, other causes are often at play in female hair loss, so consult a doctor if in doubt.
What is the difference between Procapil and Redensyl in terms of effect?
Procapil focuses on DHT inhibition, circulation, and hair follicle anchoring, while Redensyl specifically targets stem cells in the follicle to shorten the resting phase. These are therefore complementary mechanisms that are often combined in a formula, not two versions of the same thing.
Can you combine Procapil with a caffeine shampoo?
Yes, you can. Procapil is found in leave-in serums that require contact time, while a caffeine shampoo is a rinse-off product with a different, shorter effect. The two are not mutually exclusive and are often used alongside each other within the same hair care routine.
Is there a risk of an allergic reaction to oleanolic acid?
An allergic reaction to oleanolic acid is rare, but theoretically possible, as with any botanical ingredient. Test a new product containing Procapil on a small patch of skin first if you have a sensitive scalp or have reacted to olive-related products before.
How much Procapil should a serum contain to be effective?
Clinical studies on Procapil have usually been conducted with a concentration of 3%. Manufacturers do not always state the exact concentration on the label, so if in doubt, check the product information or contact the brand to find out if the studied dosage is being used.
Does Procapil also work as a supplement after a hair transplant?
Yes, Procapil can be used as a supportive treatment after a hair transplant to support the surrounding, still existing hair follicles. However, consult your treating physician about the right time to start, as the scalp needs to recover after an intervention.
Can you use Procapil on a freshly dyed or bleached scalp?
For a recently dyed or bleached scalp, wait a few days before using a new active serum to prevent two treatments from affecting a potentially sensitive skin at the same time. After that, you can simply incorporate Procapil into your routine.
Is Procapil exclusive to products manufactured in France?
No, Procapil is licensed worldwide to cosmetic companies by Sederma, regardless of where the final product is manufactured. The origin of the raw material is in France, but that does not mean that every product containing Procapil is also made there.
Is Procapil vegan?
Procapil itself does not contain animal ingredients in its core formula of Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, oleanolic acid, and apigenin, but whether a specific end product is vegan depends on the full formulation and the excipients used. Check the label or a vegan certification for certainty about a specific product.
