Last updated on 1 November 2026
Minoxidil is a treatment that widens blood vessels and extends the growth phase, but it comes with shedding (temporarily increased hair loss) and the results disappear when you stop. Procapil™ is a combination of three substances that target DHT (the hormone behind hereditary baldness), blood circulation and the hair root, with hardly any reported side effects. Minoxidil has the broader research base, Procapil™ a smaller but promising one.
You probably know minoxidil. For decades it has been one of the most widely used treatments for hair loss in men. Procapil™ is newer and less well known, but it is gaining ground in hair care serums. Both are used for male pattern baldness, but they work in a very different way. What are the real differences?
What are the main differences between Procapil™ and minoxidil?
| Minoxidil | Procapil™ | |
|---|---|---|
| Type | Medicine for the scalp | Cosmetic ingredient (biotinyl-GHK, oleanolic acid, apigenin) |
| How it works | Widens blood vessels and extends the growth phase | Targets DHT, blood circulation and the hair root |
| Shedding | Often in the first weeks, usually three to eight weeks | No known shedding period |
| Side effects | Sometimes itching, redness or flaking | Hardly any reported |
| Research | Broad base, including 393 men over 48 weeks (Olsen et al., 2002) | Smaller, mostly small studies |
| After stopping | Result usually disappears within three to four months | Differs per person |
| Combining | Can be used together with a serum containing Procapil™ | Can be used together with minoxidil |
What is minoxidil and how does it work?
Minoxidil is a treatment you apply to the scalp to stimulate hair growth. It began its life as a blood pressure-lowering medication in pill form. In the 1980s, researchers discovered a striking side effect: hair growth. Since then it has been applied to the scalp as a lotion or foam.
It works as a vasodilator: it widens the blood vessels around the hair follicles. As a result, the follicles receive more oxygen and nutrients, and blood circulation in the scalp improves. Minoxidil also extends the anagen phase (the active growth phase of the hair) and shortens the telogen resting phase (the rest period of the hair). The result: more hairs keep growing actively for longer.
Minoxidil is the only topical hair growth treatment that is FDA-approved for male pattern baldness. That sounds convincing, and for many men the results are tangible too. But there are a few things you should know before you start.
What is Procapil™ and how does it work?
Procapil™ is not a single ingredient, but a combination of three active substances that each tackle hair loss from a different angle:
- Biotinyl-GHK (a peptide) strengthens the hair root and improves the firmness of the follicle, so the hair literally falls out less easily.
- Oleanolic acid inhibits the production of DHT, the hormone that is responsible for hereditary baldness in most men.
- Apigenin improves microcirculation in the scalp, so the follicles are easier to reach for nutrients.
In one formula, Procapil™ tackles three known causes of male hair loss at the same time: hormonal factors (DHT), reduced blood circulation and weak hair roots.
What side effects do minoxidil and Procapil™ have?
Minoxidil causes side effects more often than Procapil™: shedding, and sometimes itching or redness.
A common phenomenon in the first weeks of use is shedding: temporarily accelerated hair loss. Older, weaker hairs are replaced by newer hairs in the anagen phase. For most users this lasts three to eight weeks. That sounds reassuring if you know about it beforehand, but many men stop at exactly this point because they think the treatment is not working.
In addition, minoxidil users sometimes report itching, redness or flaking on the scalp. In rare cases there are heart palpitations, particularly at higher concentrations. These are exceptions, but it is only fair to mention them.
Procapil™ has a considerably friendlier side effect profile. Clinical studies show hardly any side effects. There is no known shedding period, and skin irritation is rarely reported. That makes it more accessible for men who are sensitive to skin reactions.
What does the research say about Procapil™ and minoxidil?
For minoxidil, the research base is broad. It has existed for decades, there are large independent studies, and its effect is well documented. In the study by Olsen et al. (2002, 393 men aged 18 to 49, 48 weeks, double-blind), 5% minoxidil gave 45 percent more new hair than 2% minoxidil (18.6 versus 12.7 hairs in a fixed measured area) and more than placebo.
For Procapil™, the study base is smaller, but promising. In a placebo-controlled study by the manufacturer Sederma (35 men with hereditary hair loss, 18 on a lotion with 3% Procapil™ and 17 on placebo, twice daily for four months), the ratio between hairs in the growth phase and the resting phase improved in about two thirds of the Procapil™ group.
In a comparative study (Karaca and Akpolat, 2019, 24 weeks, men with hereditary hair loss), a combination of Redensyl™, Capixyl™ and Procapil™ scored higher than 5% minoxidil on the investigator's assessment. This was a combination of three ingredients, not Procapil™ alone.
A caveat: most Procapil™ studies are small and relatively short. The results are positive, but larger independent trials are still lacking.
What happens when you stop using minoxidil or Procapil™?
If you stop using minoxidil, the results disappear, something many men only find out afterward. The hair that came back depends on the treatment. Within three to four months after stopping, it falls out again. For many users, this means a lifelong commitment in practice.
For Procapil™ this is less black and white. Because the ingredient works on the causes of hair loss (DHT inhibition, improved blood circulation, stronger hair roots), the theory is that the effects may last longer. In practice, this differs from person to person.
Which ingredient is most suitable for whom?
Minoxidil works best for men who are relatively young (under forty), whose hair loss is not too far advanced yet, and who are willing to keep using it consistently for a long time. The shedding period requires perseverance.
Procapil™ suits men who want to step in early, are sensitive to skin irritation, or are looking for an ingredient that tackles several causes of hair loss at the same time without heavy side effects.
The two do not necessarily exclude each other. Would you like to start with a serum that combines Procapil™ with other active ingredients such as Redensyl™, Baicapil™ and caffeine? Then the Hairborn Growth Serum is an option that brings several mechanisms together in one formula.
The serum works with the BornActive™ formula: twelve ingredients, including Capilia Longa™, Hairborn Complex™ and Procapil™. And if it does not work for you, the 150 Days Growth or Money Back Guarantee simply gets you your money back.
Frequently asked questions
Is Procapil™ a brand name or a generic term?
Procapil™ is a patented brand name for the combination of biotinyl-GHK, oleanolic acid and apigenin, developed by the company Sederma. It is therefore not a generic umbrella term like "active ingredients", but a specific, protected formula that manufacturers may use under license.
Can you combine Procapil™ with finasteride?
Yes, you can. Procapil™ works through a combination of DHT inhibition, improved blood circulation and strengthening of the hair root, while finasteride works through a stronger, systemic DHT blockade. The two partly overlap in how they work, but they do not exclude each other and are more often used together in practice.
Does Procapil™ work mainly on the hairline or on the crown?
Procapil™ has not been specifically tested on one area of the scalp; the active substances act on processes that can play out across the whole scalp. In practice, users report results on both the hairline and the crown, although the outcome depends strongly on how active the follicles in that specific spot still are.
Can you use Procapil™ and minoxidil together?
Yes, you can. They work through different mechanisms and there is no known negative interaction. Minoxidil widens the blood vessels and extends the growth phase, while Procapil™ focuses on DHT, blood circulation and the hair root.
Can you tell whether Procapil™ is present in the right concentration in a product?
That is hard to determine with the naked eye, since concentrations are not always clearly stated on the label. Clinical studies on Procapil™ were usually carried out with a specific concentration, so it is worth checking whether a manufacturer is transparent about the amount used.
Is Procapil™ suitable alongside finasteride and minoxidil together?
Yes, in principle, because the three work through different mechanisms. Some men deliberately combine finasteride, minoxidil and a serum with Procapil™ to use several points of attack at once, although the combination of all three together has not been specifically studied in clinical trials.
Why is the shedding period with minoxidil actually a good sign?
Shedding is often seen as a sign that the hair growth cycle is being reactivated: older, weaker hairs are shed faster to make room for new hairs in the growth phase. It is no guarantee of eventual success, but it does point to activity in the follicle, which in itself is a favorable signal.
Can you switch from minoxidil to Procapil™ without a transition period?
Yes, you can do that without a special transition period, because both work through different mechanisms and there is no known interaction. Do build up the new routine gradually, and keep in mind that stopping minoxidil itself can cause a temporary period of more hair loss, separate from the effect of Procapil™.
Is there an age limit above which Procapil™ makes less sense?
There is no hard age limit, but as with most active ingredients, follicles that have been inactive for a long time respond less well than follicles that are only just starting to weaken. In practice, that makes Procapil™ more valuable for early to moderate hair loss than for far advanced baldness, regardless of exact age.
What side effects can Procapil™ cause?
In the available studies, side effects are rarely reported. As with any cosmetic product, a sensitive scalp can react with mild redness or itching. If you have sensitive skin, test the product on a small patch of scalp first. If symptoms persist, stop using it and consult a doctor.
